MILAN, France, Jan. 15?a The hottest sequel during the saga on the Gucci
guy can be a melodrama: he's obsessed about themself during the day -- by means
of occasion, actually, he's obsessed about him self then, also.
About the Gucci runway, Tom Ford estimate his market match the realistic
global person of mystery in the romp as wide and bawdy as anything Austin, tx
Forces could deliver up. It was not very clear if Mr. Ford meant his dramatic
presentation to be mouth-in-cheek -- only one expectations so, because it would
make it easier to break down.
Mr. Ford's intercontinental poseur carries a penchant for budget squares
including a disposition for ruminations who go no deep than his tan. He's a
Continental operative whoever sample veers for tightly fitted a few-article
caters to with fob pockets, starched white colored shirts and slender metallic
ties. Observe him position to the ski slope with a high-end gold parka reduce
concise good enough to disclose his good-nicely toned derriere encased in
shape-showing grey shorts. Enjoy him produce a ask a cellular cell phone, as
part of his well-defined silk tonic conform to at one time of period when all
the others are at do the job. There he or she is once more, peaceful in a very
black wool shirt, bright turtleneck and indigo denim jeans with cuffs turned up
to demonstrate to the Gucci green and red selvage adhesive tape. Or keying in
the blowout with his burgundy fur-collared velvet fit the hue of his sun shades.
If he's not careful, he might slip on the oil slick.
What Mr. Ford is actually capable of with Gucci is almost always to present
shirts or dresses for arrivistes. He has skillfully discerned that there is
place for unabashed and yet unadorned glamour amid the existing austerity.
Recently, though, that quality has seemed short on authenticity as Mr. Ford
operates to major themself and also to make your flash that brings the funds
cleansing into Gucci.
If only because now, unlike then, it is not an organic creation of the
designer and the wearer but a costume for a poser dressed as a poseur, his
present reinvention lacks the sophistication of the original jet-set life of the
1960's and 70's.
Miuccia Prada indicates adult males switch a person standard, the original
Language go well with and tie up, for an additional -- a boxy, sloping shoulder
joint jacket and skinny cropped pants with tie and shirt all during the equal
coloring. Ms. Prada place a liner in a great many of her outerwear outdoor
jackets and likewise in neckties and suits. How come everybody need his necktie
cushioned? Well, one particular would equally well be sure to ask, How come any
individual want a fasten whatsoever?
Her selection can have took advantage of a pinch fewer earnestness. Ms.
Prada's small amount of-son meet, made up of unwell-appropriate jacket and
floodwater pants, looked clumsy very last winter and it is even less beguiling
the second time around. But Ms. Prada, the maker who moved us dark-colored nylon
jackets and backpacks, motivates these belief the fact that this need to be a
notion yet in gestation.
The custom also slipped a dark nylon pullover shaped like a sweatshirt for
a shirt and tie and shadowy trousers. On the inky black tees, putting the keys
to one facet shown the almost-centered chest pockets. Darker seamed trousers
happened to be brushed along at the leg using a black colored funnel-neck layer
with placket leading. And as if to emphasize the naivete of the collection, the
clothes were accessorized with geeky, round-toe black Oxfords with rippling
soles that brought to mind 70's Earth shoes.
In a lot of the Milan men's-dress in indicates, developers seemed to be
hunting for the point at which the new and modern, so rigorously determined in
recent years by Ms. Prada while others, could possibly converge considering the
linchpins of basic sartorial attire.
For Ms. Prada and Mr. Ford, this impulse showed alone while in the melding
from the clothes and tie up within their particular creeds. Jean-Paul Gaultier
found it in drawstring pants that are tailored, in and cuffed a antique tweed.
Dirk Bikkemberg presented it in agrees with that closed up with Velcro, and
Ennio Capasa of Outfit Nationwide during a nice and clean shirt with
undetectable eye and hook closures.
Mr. Gaultier's enchanting style movie theater set decent towards bad, angel
to protect against devil. ''devil'' models in long flowing black wigs sauntered
down the runway in red and black silk brocade suits, as the voices of the choir
of the Duomo rang out a capella. Nylon material quilted layers, one using a black coat with fur collar, were being
lower roomily, as are you will find many conform to overcoats in relation to
their extensive maximum lapels. Lasers quit the edges of coat collars raw and
several suits hid natural leather or cloth vests. One waistcoat, worn out by an
''angel,'' was component to a 3-bit soft grey and charcoal gray reversible fit
with, which Mr. Gaultier presented with white-colored tee shirt, brown fasten in
addition to a rosary.
Mr. Gaultier has had been able continue his realtor provocateur standing
even as brands like Outfit Dirk and National Bikkemberg have adhered to him for
taking their areas at the fringes of designer. This indicates, still, these
little avant-garde agencies, commencing to reveal signs and symptoms of
maturation, will turn to the center and Mr. Gaultier will for good stay to
manner what Keith Richard is to try to rock, the evergreen enfant horrible. It
truly is in great portion on account of Mr. Gaultier that Mr. Bikkemberg could
wide open his indicate along with a dude dressed in a black colored cashmere
knit cat fit without worrying about audience's batting an eyeball.
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